Disappointment Cleaver

Disappointment Route Conditions - Spring 2006

From May 24th

The route is in excellent shape. There is a well established boot track to Ingraham Flats. Access onto the cleaver was surprisingly easy and straight forward (see image to right.) Once on the cleaver, follow the well defined climbers path. On May 12-13, a number of RMI guides spent a considerable amount of time shoveling and fixing lines on the lower cleaver. A good portion of it is well protected by ropes and pickets and there is a fixed line for the the first half, of the bottom third. Climbers should note that some of this protection may be pulled as things soften up and the trail becomes more established.

Above the cleaver the route is very direct and very quick. There is a reasonable boot track with a few notable crevasse crossings. The current route should remain for another week or more, though big crevasses tend to open up and change things. More than likely, the guide service will help to figure out alternatives.

Of interest on the summit... Someone felt it was appropriate to "place their loved ones remains IN the summit register. No bag, no box, just bone shards and dust all over the register and box." Need we go there on this one?

If you're looking for an established descent line (if you've climbed another route,) the DC is probably your best option.


Thanks John Race for the reports. All photos, unless noted, by Mike Gauthier.