Emmons Winthrop Glacier Route - Archive

June 17th

For the most part, the climbing conditions on the Emmons Glacier route have changed little from the June 7th report. Yes, the trail has melted out more, but there are still some trees down.

Travel on the Inter Glacier and access to the Emmons from Camp Curtis is also straightforward and easy.

As it stands now, there is a boot track to the summit. That should probably remain, unless there is more snow. Check in with the climbing rangers at White River or Camp Schurman when you register for any last minute details.

June 7th

Patchy snow on the Glacier Basin trail for the 1st two miles, then snow for the rest of the way. There are still plenty of down trees along the trail, as it follows the drainage into Glacier Basin.


A good boot track exist up the Inter Glacier, and most of the crevasses are covered. The route from Camp Curtis to the Emmons is still in good shape. Some deep snow in places but not too bad.

The Emmons route is in super great shape with many variations, such as the bowl up and left of the corridor and climbers' right to the Winthrop shoulder. Most climbers report good snow with little ice up high.

Liberty Ridge- Has seen a lot of traffic this past week. The report is the route is in great shape. The Carbon has not been a problem yet, but it is opening up. Snow conditions are firm with little ice. The avalanche danger has gone down. Party reported that slides happened this past weekend. No word on Little Tahoma. Conditions are right for this route. The Fryingpan Glacier is still crevasse free.

Jeremy Shank reported on May 28th...

Snow from the get go; down trees melting out across the trail are an annoying obstacle. Following the creek to Glacier Basin Camp will only work for about another week or so.

The Inter Glacier is hiding its cracks quite well (i.e.: It's very straightforward!)

Accessing the Emmons from Camp Curtis is easier than normal because of a snow ramp.

Above Camp Schurman the route is very direct with many possibilities. This latest storm has left variable depths of snow along the route. Wind over the weekend transported and redistributed the snowpack. Everyone should strongly consider the possibility of avalanche.

Inter Glacier Conditions as May-21

The trail to Glacier Basin is about 95% snow covered. Take caution crossing weak snow bridges over creeks. Five downed trees also obstruct parts of the trail. Crevasses have yet to open on the Inter Glacier, but beware of the cracks as snow melts.

Due to the recent warm weather, skis or snowshoes are recommended to avoid deep "post-holing." Access from the Inter Glacier or Ruth Ridge onto the Emmons is currently straightforward.