The Kautz Glacier Route Conditions - Aug 22nd
The Kautz is in good shape. There has been a lot of work done establishing camp sites on the route. There are excellent campsites at the top of the fan at 7,200 feet, at 9,500 feet above the two towers, and at 10,900 feet. These sites all have running water. There are a few other campsites on the route with snow that can be melted for water. All of these sites are very visible, with nice rock walls for wind protection.
The fixed line in the notch at 11,300 feet is still in place. Do not linger in the chute between the bottom of the fixed line and the base of the route. The chute is exposed to rockfall and serac fall from the ice cliffs above. After you cross the chute the technical climbing starts. The first pitch is a stair-steppy 45 degree ice ramp leading to a second pitch(approx. 70 meters) of quality ice up to 70 degrees in steepness. There is a small section of firm snow separating these two pitches.
Above the ice chute at 12,100 feet the route eases off in steepness and there were a few open crevasses to cross, as well as some thinning snow bridges. The route then angles up to the right across a large crevasse on an adequate snow bridge. Then the route continues up a steeper snow slope towards the top of the Wilson Headwall. From the top of the snow slope continue on gentle slopes to the summit.
~ Philip Edmonds
We don't have any first hand reports, but there is a trip report over on cc.com. For archived information on this site, look here.