Tahoma Glacier

Updated Route Conditions for Tahoma Glacier - August 16th

Climbing rangers recently visited the lower Tahoma Glacier area and were able to look up the entire route. Somewhat surprisingly, there still appears to be a relatively straightforward line of ascent through all of the crevasses. Approaching the route from the east (Tahoma Creek Trail side) might be the easiest, with access to the glacier from the Emerald Ridge area. If approaching via the Puyallup Cleaver expect difficulties exiting the cleaver onto the glacier. However, just below lower St. Andrew's Rock there is a snow chute leading off the cleaver onto the edge of the glacier. From this point, weave through the crevasses onto the steeper upper section of the glacier, which still appears fairly direct.

It is exciting and rewarding to visit the Tahoma Glacier region this time of year. Expect challenging route finding plus beautiful scenery in the meadows and above, no matter how high you go.

~ Cooper Self and Paul Charlton

August 2nd

An independent party reported that the Tahoma Glacier was badly broken. Although this party did not summit, climbers who are looking for a more technical climb and want to work on their route finding skills, may find this to be an interesting option.

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