Nisqually Icefall 2009

This report just in from Nate Farr & Marcus Donaldson, nice work, guys! They climbed on 5/30/2009.

Slots were mostly wide open in the icefall itself, with delicate but passable bridges. Took on three cruxes directly staying just left of center. Simul-climbed using two pickets and two screws.

Heard no rockfall or serac activity. The two took 5 hours from Muir to the summit. Overall, the reported the route to still be in decent shape and said the bridge crossings are the main hazard on the route.

This just sent to me by Jiri Richter. -Thanks!

I saw on the climbing blog you're looking for some info about the icefall. My friend and I climbed it on 5/1. Here are some pictures




Here's one that shows the route we took. We had some routefinding challenges due to big crevasses. We tried to go straight up to the middle of the upper Nisqually which appears on the pictures as an easy snow slope. We ran into a big crevasse with the opposite side much higher, creating an overhanging wall with a 4-5 foot wide gap below. From my picture you can see we went down and right between some seracs until we saw a ramp going to the top of the wall.

The ramp was a bit sketchy but the ice screws were solid. Once above this crevasse. we were forced to traverse back to the extreme left by another crevasse. After some more zig-zagging we were able to join tracks with the FF route. I found the most of the bridges a bit sketchy. And it's hard to say if the route is still climbable. I hope this helps.

5/18/09



Still Do-able?

It looks to me like the ice fall is still do-able. I'd like to get trip report from someone.

Just got down off the mountain from placing the glacier stakes with the glacier monitoring crew. It looks like there is an "average" amount of snow this year. So it's very likely that the routes are going to be in "average" condition.

Here's a picture of the Icefall. There may still be a way up onto the middle of upper Nisqually. Look on the left of the picture.