Wilson Headwall 2010


Wilson Headwall 2010 - May 11th

Like all the other routes at the moment, the Wilson Headwall appears to be in excellent condition. The headwall appears to have routes that go on both the left and right sides at the moment, with both routes looking filled in and direct.

Check out the Kautz posting for approach details.

Fuhrer Finger 2010


Fuhrer Finger 2010-July16th

The Fuhrer Finger is still a go! Rangers climbed and skied the finger late last week and found excellent climbing conditions. The skiing, however, is close to being done. The skiing down from 14k, to about 11k was fantastic, but the lower elevation skiing brought grabby, mushy slush! The high freezing levels the past week or so have taken a toll on the snow, and caused in increase in rock fall through the finger.

The approach to the finger is still in great shape. The lower Nisqually Glacier is slowly starting to open up, and roping before crossing would be recommended. Once across the Nisqually, there is a solid boot track leading to the bivy sites at 9,200 feet, near the "Castle". All of these sites are melted out and in great shape. There are several great, flat sheltered spots, with easy access to snow for melting water. Once you take off from camp, be cautious on the Wilson, as there is a system of fairly large crevasses open just northeast of the 9,200 foot bivy spots.

The entrance to the finger itself is still very straight forward, and all snow. Once in the finger be sure to wear your brain bucket, and don't take too many breaks. As we climbed, we noticed very little rockfall with the prevailing firm, cold conditions, but upon our return in the late morning we noted several very large rocks that had fallen while we were on the upper mountain, and the snow had softened quickly to the point of being mid-shin deep while on skis. The upper exit from the finger still presents the climber with two choices: climber's left, along the Wapowety Cleaver, or climber's right out onto the main Nisqually Glacier. Both appear to be a "go." We chose right, and found smooth travel, but noted that several of the snow bridges had recently collapsed, or would do so soon. Good glacier navigation skills are necessary, especially on your return. There is one large crevasse around 12,800, which may require protection to cross in the near future. From here, continue straight up and join the folks coming up from the Kautz route for the slog to the crater rim. All in all, we found pleasant conditions, but make sure to move early, and travel safe! Get on up here and get some of the corn harvest, and enjoy the sunny weather that has been persisting on the upper mountain the past week or so!

Fuhrer Finger 2010 - June 26th

Two locals skied the finger today and said it was in great shape.

Fuhrer Finger 2010 - May 11th

The Fuhrer Finger and Thumb look to be in great shape at the moment. Everything is filled in with a foot or so of new snow falling in the last 24 hours. Conditions are prime for some ski descents!

Check out the Kautz posting for information regarding the approach. Also check out that crown below the finger! Be conscience of what and who are above and below you.

Wooo hoo! Skiing!