Ingraham Direct 2011

June 5th - A large crevasse grew even wider within the last couple of days making progress up the ID impractical. Climbing teams have switched to climbing on the Disappointment Cleaver route. Check here for the DC route conditions.



June 2-
As of yesterday the ID was the main route of choice out of Camp Muir. Rangers summited Sunday the 30th in good weather. However, yesterday guide services attempted the route and found a key bridge at 11,700 had collapsed or otherwise disappeared. They have turned their attention to the DC as an alternate route to the summit. Stay tuned as the Muir Corridor is in flux right now and we should have current updates available by phone beginning this afternoon. Conditions on the upper mountain are changing daily and it remains to be seen if the ID will see further ascents.


That said, the mountain is in great shape with most all routes offering good climbing. Don't hesitate to come up and enjoy the forecasted good weather on the upper mountain!!!

May 29th



Above is a snow profile from the 28th on the Ingraham Direct. Avalanche conditions turned climbers around on the 29th. The instability came mostly from wind transport the night before. There are still some things to keep an eye on but the route got pushed trough on the 30th.
The Ingraham Direct provided passage to the summit for 2 parties on the 30th, despite multiple difficulties on the upper part of the route. Finally, after 4 weeks of training, climbing rangers where able to summit from Camp Muir! A fixed rope up a short section of exposed climbing on steep snow is required in order to cross a large crevasse at approx. 13K. Climbers may need to traverse out climbers right (towards the Emmons) to find an alternative passage. The route above 13k seems highly dynamic right now due to rapidly changing snow and crevasse conditions. Climbers hoping for a good shot at the summit should be prepared to route find and negotiate crevasse crossings without reliance on other parties. That being said, much of the snow was firm and supportive making for some fun and efficient climbing. The route is still taking a relatively direct and highly aesthetic line straight up the center of some serious glacier terrain. If you are ready for some amazing climbing, and a legit mountaineering experience, get up here and take advantage of the Ingraham Glacier while it lasts!






May 26th

The ID is still the standard route of choice for climbers ascending out of Camp Muir. The climbing is fairly straightforward glacier travel, although there are a couple of more broken sections of glacier that require crossing thinning snowbridges. Be prepared to give your climbing partners a belay over these bridges along the route, or look for alternate ways of bypassing the thinner parts.

New snow on the upper mountain should improve conditions in the short term for the ID, but how long the ID remains the route of choice from Camp Muir will depend on weather and the condition of snow bridges on the middle section of the route. Climbers should maybe consider Gib Ledges, which remains in stellar shape, or exploring the DC.


May 13th

The ID is in great condition, though it is changing rapidly. If you are planning on climbing the ID, get on it soon, as it seems to be thinner than might be expected for such a snowy spring. Accordingly, it should be noted that there were some crevasses to be crossed on the route with thin bridges. The potential to route find and navigate around new hazards exist daily; do not assume that yesterday’s track is good for today. That said, travel early morning has offered excellent neve conditions and a generally direct route to the summit.