Tahoma Glacier 2011

August 3rd

If you are looking for a route that offers stunning beauty, solitude, and something that will challenge your glacier navigation skills then the Tahoma Glacier is for you! With the summer temps finally starting to ramp up, some of the winter snow pack is finally receding, providing for easier access to remote routes. Access to the Tahoma route via the westide road is open finally, and the trails leading to the glacier are melting quickly, offering easier access to this hidden gem.


There are several approach options from the westside road, teams can approach via the Saint Andrews Creek trail and up to Klapatche Park, and on up to Saint Andews lake and finally onto the glacier. This option involves more road walking, but offers a direct line to the glacier, and access at a higher elevation, with excellent bivy sites along the Puyallup Cleaver.

Climbers may also choose to take the Tahoma Creek trail and access the wonderland trail. Next teams ascend the lower Success Cleaver, and cross the South Tahoma glacier over to the main body of the Tahoma itself. If you opt for this route get excited for some excellent glacier travel and route finding!

Get out and climb this remote and beautiful route before the summer temps melt the fun away!



June 16

This route is a northwest classic offering some of the longest and most varied route-finding of any glacier climb in the lower 48. Right now the route is in great shape, steep but not too steep, broken but with many opportunities for an ascent with good route finding.

The approach is typically done via the Westside Road and offers over 12,000 feet of vertical gain in one of the most remote regions of the Park. Plan on 3-4 days of approach and climbing and expect to see nobody else the entire time. This is a true wilderness experience not to be missed.