Ingraham Direct 2012

July 18

Parties have stopped using the Ingraham as the standard route from Camp Muir. Large crevasses span the entire width of the glacier making route-finding a challenge.

June 6

The Ingraham is still very climbable, but it seems like the majority of climbers have turned their attention to the DC route. The route up the Ingraham follows the same basic line that is described in previous updates, but expect some larger crevasse openings between the 11,500' and 12,300' elevations. Also be prepared to do some real routefinding since the new snow has covered the old bootpack.


June 1

Climbers have still been setting their sights on the ID as the primary route to the summit from Camp Muir (as opposed to the DC).  New snow, high winds, and low visibility have made for challenging conditions over the past couple of days.  The weather forecast looks uncertain for the next couple of days - perfect enough to get to high camps, set the alarm early, and get ready to rally when the weather window comes.




May 27

The ID made a comeback this weekend with 5 parties using the route to reach the summit. Snow accumulation from earlier in the week ranged from little to upwards of 2 ft, which may have eased a few of the crevasse crossing on the Ingraham Headwall. The new snow is consolidating quickly and the avalanche danger is generally decreasing. The route is still relatively direct and "filled in", and remains a viable alternative to the DC. There was a small amount of icefall acitivity at about 12,000ft, but the exposure is brief, and can be managed reasonably well by small groups that travel efficiently.

Overall the condition of the ID is impressive. Come and get some before it's too late.


May 24

The ID is starting to fall out of favor, it surely still "goes" but with open and broken sections up high. The DC is more straight forward. With the recent snow the route may look better than it really is, however if it is on your tick list there is no reason not to give it a go.



May 7th

With sunny weather and warm temperatures people have been flocking to the mountain. Many people are choosing to still ski to Camp Muir, and even carry their skis to the summit for some high altitude turns. Right now the Ingraham Direct is in great shape, and seems to be the route of choice out of Camp Muir, with very few open crevasses below 12,600 feet. The sun has been warming the snow on the route considerably the past few days, so be sure to head out early, and use your best judgement on avalanche conditions. Out of Camp Muir the route traverses across the Cowlitz, and up Cathedral Gap, which is still completely snow covered, making for speedy ascent times. Once up to Cathedral Gap use caution as you traverse across the steeper slopes leading to Ingraham Flats. 

Ingraham Flats is in great shape, and may be a nice option to escape the early season crowds at Muir. From the flats the route heads straight up the center of the Ingraham, avoiding the icefalls on either edge of the glacier. The route ascends straight up a steep slope before the angle eases and zig zags its way up to approximately 12,500 feet. Currently the popular choice is to go climbers left from here and head towards Camp Comfort, and the top of Gibralter Rock. From this point the snow conditions are a bit firmer, with a few large crevasses open, but by trending to the climbers left onto the Nisqually at approximately 13,000 feet these can be avoided before turning back to the north and heading straight for the crater.

Spring has finally arrived, and with the past few days the mountain has received lots of sunshine and high freezing levels, making for excellent climbing! Make sure to bring your sunglasses, sun block, and avy gear, and come on up to grab a piece of the beautiful spring weather and climbing conditions!