Ingraham Glacier 2014

June 1

All climbers are choosing to climb the Disappointment Cleaver (DC) instead of the Ingraham Glacier.  Lots of open crevasses and huge serac blocks looming over the route have made it almost impassable. 

May 17

Rangers went for a climb on the Ingraham Direct today. It can be a fast way to get on the upper mountain from Ingragam Flats when conditions permit. Rangers were able climbed to about 12,000 feet before encountering a large crevasse that transects a large part of the Ingraham Glacier. Motivated climbers could probably find a way around it, but it would be spicy!

Large crevasse at 12,000 feet
The guides have stopped using the ID for clients this season and switched fully to the Disappointment Cleaver. There are no wands left and not much of a boot pack either. Expect to do your own route finding if you ascend this route. The ID can be a popular ski route this time of year as well, use good judgment if you choose to ski above some of the large crevasses that are open right now. Most of the rest of the glacier was in typical shape for this time of year and not too broken up yet. In the photo below you can see the Ingraham Glacier on the left, and the Disappointment Cleaver on the right.