From Glacier Basin Camp there is no snow all the way to the base of the Inter. The first steep slope of the glacier is proving difficult for some teams, as it is composed mostly of ice currently. This type of ice can be challenging, as it is not truly ice climbing, but yet it is still quite steep. Some teams are finding that placing an ice screw or two as running protection has been helpful. There is still several small "fingers" of snow coming down that climbers may choose to access as well. There is a small sliver directly below the rock nunatek that several teams noted. However, this option is directly under a rock fall zone, so if you choose this path, put on the hard hats and keep an eye and ear up hill.
Above the first pressure ridge the glacier is actually in fairly typical shape for this time of year, with mostly snow. There are the typical crevasses on the Inter, so many parties are choosing to rope up for the trip to Schurman or Curtis.
The crossing from the Inter Glacier, at Camp Curtis to gain the Emmons is also entirely melted out right now, with some rockfall present. There is a good trail down through the dirt to get onto the glacier, however, this trail is quite loose and a little steep down near the Emmons. Please use caution as you descend this trail, as there is a substantial moat below. The Emmons itself to access Camp Schurman is in good shape, with a well beat in boot track leading right into camp.
Whether you are looking for a beautiful day trip, or you are coming up to climb, come enjoy this beautiful glacier scenery and say hello to the friendly climbing rangers!
June 24, 2015
|From Upper Glacier Basin.|
The inter glacier is still snow covered from top to bottom but the rest of the Glacier Basin area is melted out. Only one crevasse is currently open above the first rock island on climbers left. Some other crevasse are starting to show a few sagging areas on the upper inter but still have stable snow bridges.
The snow surface is getting pretty textured with suncups, however some smoother areas still exist and several parties have skied it recently
|Upper Inter Conditions|
May 27, 2015
Even with all the high pressure and warm sunny days, the Inter Glacier is holding up nicely. A small crack has opened up around 8350' directly above the isolated rock in the center of the glacier. The upper portions are skiing quite nicely, but once you reach the first headwall above Glacier Basin, the snow becomes quite sticky. If you are are traveling on foot, prepare to post-hole until you reach approx 8800'. In Glacier Basin, there are scattered snow patches around the group campsite, but the snow doesn't really start until you are off the moraine, under the slope below St. Elmo's pass. Again to avoid knee deep slush, it's best to get an early start. Happy climbing! Stay safe. Stay smart.
|View of the Inter Glacier and St. Elmo's Pass from the group campsite.|
Inter glacier is holding up well for now. No exposed crevasses as of this posting, but keep an eye out. The snow does not quite reach the Glacier Basin trail (about 100 yards short). In the past week freezing levels have been around the top of the Inter and the snow has been wet and unconsolidated. The best travel conditions would be in the morning after a cool clear night.