Tahoma Glacier 2016

Saturday, June 5th:

Lower Tahoma Glacier from aerial reconnaissance  
The Sickle
Climbing rangers were able to tie in a patrol on the Tahoma Glacier while conducting training on the west side of the mountain this past weekend. Although the character of the Tahoma Glacier seems to be have changed over the last few years, both the Sickle and the Tahoma Glacier routes appear to be a go with a little bit of quality route finding. There has been a lot of ice fall activity on both routes so be sure to move your team wisely through these zones and keep a heads up as conditions continue to warm.

St. Andrews Rock, Sunset Amphitheater, Sickle and Tahoma Glacier.
(10,800 ft. bench on upper right)


 Currently, St. Andrews Rock doesn't seem like a plausible camp for any of the routes surrounding the Puyallup Cleaver. Glacial recession and lack of snow make getting up onto and off of the St. Andrew's saddle sketchy at best. There is however a descent bench around 10,800ft. at the base of the Tahoma Cleaver. Again, watch for ice fall from the Tahoma ice cliffs and rockfall from the Tahoma Cleaver.



Rangers approaching the top of the
Tahoma chute 12,400 ft.



From the bench, routefinding is fairly strait forward with a few larger bridge crossings to gain the steeper terrain around 12,000ft. Conditions were prime at 5am for easy two tooling action and good snow for vertical pickets. As summer rolls on you can most likely expect anything from loose wet snow to glacial ice on this slope depending on your timing. This might be a good zone to extend your ropes and put those lead skills into practice! One or two more hollow bridge crossings gets you to lower angle terrain and the meat of the route with almost 2,000 ft. of 35 degree slogging ahead of you.
Upper Tahoma tracklog



Wednesday, April 20th

Current photos of the route. More to come soon.

For 2015 route conditions and information follow this link:   Tahoma Glacier 2015

Tahoma Glacier

Tahoma Glacier