A team of climbing rangers took a look at the Gibraltar Ledges route on Wednesday 5/15 and found it to be in good condition. If cooler conditions prevail, the route should remain climbable for the next few weeks.
Firm snow and good cramponing existed on the upper Cowlitz to the 11,700' Col at Gibraltar Rock. From here the mixed snow and rock route across the ledges also provided good climbing. The Gib Ledges route is notorious for rockfall but currently a lot of ice still exists on the face above the route providing a little extra security. The latter part of the route consists of firm snow and ice, all the way to camp comfort.
Due to an incoming lenticular cloud the rangers did not top out, but descended to the Gib Chute instead. Here they found evidence of recent massive ice fall from the Nisqually glacier looming above.
2-3foot deep groves are cut down the entire chute and large debris field is at the bottom. The objective hazards in this area are very high and travel through the Gib Chute by skis or climbing should be taken with speed and the up-most caution.
Emmons - Winthrop 2013
The trail up to Glacier Basin is mostly snow with a few sections that will require some walking. There are many places you can stop and get water all the way to Glacier Basin campground, but be sure to fill up before you leave for your final approach up the Inter glacier. There is no water from this point to Schurman unless you're making it.
With the warm temps. there has been a lot of observed wet snow avalanche activity on both sides of Glacier Basin up to Saint Elmo's pass. Use caution and travel with an index of suspicion around these slopes during mid-day when the temperatures are increasing. Travel up the Inter glacier is where you gain most of your elevation during the approach so be sure to time it right. If the sun is out and freezing level is above 9,000ft., midday conditions up this can be hot, punchy, and undesirable. Camp Schurman Ranger Station has been opened up for the season and will be staffed on the weekends starting late May. The toilet is open and operational. The climbing routes out of camp Schurman are in good condition with the Winthrop shoulder looking to be the most direct line to the top.
Fuhrer Finger 2013
April 30
Thanks to the guys from Next Adventure who sent us their report an photos from a recent climb and ski of the Finger.
We started at the Paradise parking lot at 3 pm and made our way across the scorching hot Nisqually glacier. We made our way slowly to our bivy at 8,500 ft. We had an awesome campsite, with a great view of the Kautz ice cliff and the Wilson glacier. We left our bivy at 4 am and headed up. The snow was not quite consolidated enough for easy climbing, many energy consuming postholes took up lots of time.
Thanks to the guys from Next Adventure who sent us their report an photos from a recent climb and ski of the Finger.
We started at the Paradise parking lot at 3 pm and made our way across the scorching hot Nisqually glacier. We made our way slowly to our bivy at 8,500 ft. We had an awesome campsite, with a great view of the Kautz ice cliff and the Wilson glacier. We left our bivy at 4 am and headed up. The snow was not quite consolidated enough for easy climbing, many energy consuming postholes took up lots of time.
We had a tiring but
very succesfull climb and ski of the fuhrer finger, making it within 200' of the summit before strong winds forced a stop. Snow conditions
improved for climbing halfway through the coulior. On the way down we
had smooth wind-buff from 14,000-12,500. Followed by a couple thousand vert of
nice corn snow, then overly saturated wet slide type snow below that. Once we made it in the coulior proper, the snow softened to a nice corn
consistency. We made many awesome, steep exposed turns above rocks and
cliffs all the way down to the Wilson glacier.
Notice the classic changing conditions these guys ran into. In a 10,000' ski descent conditions will change considerably. Be prepared and make good plans for these sometimes rapid changes.
Muir Snowfield 2013
May 6th
Spring, or even summer seem to have come early to Mt. Rainier and the Muir Snowfield! For nearly the past week we have seen sunny skies and high freezing levels here on the mountain. The trek from Paradise to Muir remains largely unchanged, but the snow is coming off fast in the lowlands. The high freezing levels have made for very soft snow conditions in the afternoons, with little refreezing at night. However, the skiing remains great! Come on up while the high pressure holds strong and get some great ski turns, or a great hike on the mountain. Remember your sunscreen and sunglasses, and remember it is still early spring and the weather can change quickly. So come prepared for any type of weather. As mentioned below, there are still no wands marking the route from Paradise to Muir, so bring tools for navigation. Come enjoy the epic early season weather and we will see you on the mountain!
April 30
With the sunny days and cool nights we are starting to see some spring corn conditions on the snowfield...woo-hoo! The report and advice from below is still valid for all people heading up or down from Paradise. Come prepared for all types of weather and a full day adventure.
April 7
The snowfield is in prime early spring (still winter) condition. The route from Paradise to Muir follows the standard winter route up Pan Face, then up, up, up to Muir. Skiing conditions were great last week with smooth spring-like snow, but after this weekend's storm expect either deep cold snow, or scoured surfaces from the wind.
There are no wands marking any of the Paradise-to-Muir route at the moment, so bring your navigation aids, even if it's sunny when you leave the parking lot...and bring your sunscreen even if it's raining when you start out. Oftentimes the clouds thin or even vanish above about 9500'....and even if not, you can get burned badly in an overcast.
Bet the skiing could be good.
Spring, or even summer seem to have come early to Mt. Rainier and the Muir Snowfield! For nearly the past week we have seen sunny skies and high freezing levels here on the mountain. The trek from Paradise to Muir remains largely unchanged, but the snow is coming off fast in the lowlands. The high freezing levels have made for very soft snow conditions in the afternoons, with little refreezing at night. However, the skiing remains great! Come on up while the high pressure holds strong and get some great ski turns, or a great hike on the mountain. Remember your sunscreen and sunglasses, and remember it is still early spring and the weather can change quickly. So come prepared for any type of weather. As mentioned below, there are still no wands marking the route from Paradise to Muir, so bring tools for navigation. Come enjoy the epic early season weather and we will see you on the mountain!
April 30
With the sunny days and cool nights we are starting to see some spring corn conditions on the snowfield...woo-hoo! The report and advice from below is still valid for all people heading up or down from Paradise. Come prepared for all types of weather and a full day adventure.
April 7
The snowfield is in prime early spring (still winter) condition. The route from Paradise to Muir follows the standard winter route up Pan Face, then up, up, up to Muir. Skiing conditions were great last week with smooth spring-like snow, but after this weekend's storm expect either deep cold snow, or scoured surfaces from the wind.
There are no wands marking any of the Paradise-to-Muir route at the moment, so bring your navigation aids, even if it's sunny when you leave the parking lot...and bring your sunscreen even if it's raining when you start out. Oftentimes the clouds thin or even vanish above about 9500'....and even if not, you can get burned badly in an overcast.
Bet the skiing could be good.
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